Varanasi

Hi All,

We knew Varanasi was a pilgrimage sight for Hindus but hadn’t foreseen it’s religious significance. Hindus across India aim to visit at least once in their lifetime - often in later life once they have met all their life wishes. A sunrise boat trip took us along the Ganges River to watch a daily river worship ceremony performed by 7 Brahmin men - the highest in the Hindu cast system. The ceremony included singing, chanting and a display of fire. We passed many of the city's 88 holy ghats where pilgrims entered the water to wash and pray.

The following day, we explored the winding streets and passed hundreds of shops selling silk; for which Varanasi is famous. With brightly coloured table cloths, dresses, saris and scarfs all boasting intricate patterns, it wasn’t surprising I was drawn in. We were shown fabric for saris that ranged from polyester at around £10 to pure silk at over £200. While a sari fitting tempted me to buy one of these beautiful traditional outfits, I came to the conclusion I just wouldn’t wear it back home. The highlight of Ross’ day was a visit to the locally renowned ‘Blue Lassi’ shop which had been serving fruit filled yoghurt drinks for 75 years. I had a coconut lassi topped with pomegranate and Ross a chocolate and apple one; both in handmade, disposable pottery cups. They were deliciously fruity and very fresh - a welcome change to the (equally tasty) oily curries!

That afternoon we witnessed an extremely powerful ceremony at one of the two burning ghats. Families brought their love ones who had passed away down to the river on bamboo stretchers. The bodies were covered in a golden sheet ready to be cremated at the waters edge. Male family members submerged the body in the holy water of the Ganges before placing it onto a carefully prepared wood pile. Taking several hours and requiring 250kg of wood, ghat workmen attended to the fire until only the rib cage of a man and the hips of a woman remained. These final remains were placed into the water which marked the end of the service. Hindus have been cremating their loved ones here for over 3000 years. The fire to start each cremation is taken from the temple alongside the ghat which has been here just as long. It was extremely powerful to see this religious ritual but also quite shocking when making comparisons to the somber and calm funeral services at home. What was even more shocking though was to see ashes, remains, waste water and rubbish all flowing into the Ganges which are used to bath in and drink.

Varanasi wasn’t the peaceful pilgrimage sight we expected to find but was very moving. It is a city we won’t ever forget. For now we’re out of India (until we return for the Diwali festival) so our next update will be in Nepal.

Love R and D xxx