Hi All,
Our trip to Amritsar took us 300 miles north of Delhi so we had been debating whether it was worth the nine hour train journey there and back but my god are we glad we went!
Amritsar is home to the Golden Temple, a breathtaking Sikh pilgrimage sight. The ornate temple adorned in 750kg of pure gold seemingly floats upon the holy water and is the centerpiece of the Gurdwara complex. We made three visits here in one day! Firstly, arriving at 6 am to beat the queues (which we didn’t) to enter the Golden Temple itself and watch the sun rise. The inside was equally as ornate and beautiful as the outside. Calming live music was being played and people sat in every corner reading prayers from the holy book. We returned for the second time in the afternoon to experience langar - the Sikh act of giving selflessly and providing free food for around 100,000 people each day! It was a crazy but humbling experience. With the rest of the crowd we were handed our metal plate, bowl and spoon; we then piled into the langar hall (during which Ross was bashed on the head with a plate); sat in rows on mats along the floor; and finally were served a lunch of dahl, rice and chapatis by volunteers carrying buckets of each. After we had finished eating, we took our plates to the hundreds of volunteers washing up outside the crowded volunteer kitchen. The whole operation was seriously impressive and all made possible by the goodwill of people. Our final visit to the temple was after sunset when the golden wonder gleamed the greatest. Ross, who is never lost for words, was absolutely speechless. We both agreed it was simply the most beautiful building we have ever seen, even surpassing the Taj Mahal!
Amritsar is the site of the 1919 Jallianwala Bagh massacre. We visited the memorial gardens created on the ground in which an estimated 379 peaceful demonstrators lost their lives. The Indian government believe the British figure of 379 is actually closer to 1,500, but no one will ever know for certain. British General Reginald Dyer ordered for all the exits to the square to be barricaded and troops to open fire without warning on men women and children. This terrible act was not supposed to stop the protest but to punish the Indian people for civil unrest and prevent further protests. The same general returned to England as a hero, something which for the first time in our lives made us feel ashamed to be British. Seeing the bullet holes and martyrs well, where 120 people jumped to their death to avoid the shooting, was a powerful reminder of the horrific scene that day.
Our final stop on our 24 hour visit was the Wagah-Attari border between India and Pakistan. Each evening troops from both countries put on a ceremonial performance to lower their flags. Crowds gather in a stadium on either side cheering as the soldiers perform elaborate marches kicking their legs so their thighs touch their shoulders! People chanted as the gates were opened and hands shaken between the forces. The atmosphere was electric and a great finale to our last stop in India.
We have had an incredible time in India which has exceed both our expectations. The culture, trains, food, world heritage sights and people have all made it an amazing experience. In our 6 weeks here we have seen some of this huge country but could spend our year travelling here alone so we will have to come back again to see some of the parts we missed, particularly the south! We are flying to Sri Lanka next and have so many recommendations from family and friends to look forward to - excited is an understatement!
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Love R and D xxx
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