Hi All,
Not yet bored of beaches, we continued to make our way along the south coast and up the western side of the island for our last few days in Sri Lanka. The heavens opened just before we arrived, soaking us and flooding the pathway leading to our cute little cabana. We are becoming more accustom to the monsoon rain now with clouds coming in most afternoons and downpours every few days.
Anticipation had been building for Unawatuna; idyllic beaches, secluded coves and amazing snorkelling. We were able to enjoy all three. On our first morning we found that many companies offer snorkelling tours around the coral reef (the little left of it since the tsunami) on jungle beach. Determined to find it ourselves, we walked two kilometres and found ourselves in two beautiful coves. These were a well known ‘secret’ thanks to Lonely Planet but beautiful nonetheless. This time we hired snorkels to explore the tropical waters; attracting the fish using the Button bread bottle technique (plastic bottle stuffed with bread then stabbed with a pen knife so when squeezed produces clouds of fish food).
Not content with just watching the fish, Ross embarked on a sunrise deep sea fishing trip with a local fisherman. After four hours fishing over a coral reef, he returned proudly carrying a bag containing: 6 coral fish, 2 bright red grouper, 1 mullet and 1 very unusual looking trigger fish. We attempted to have a BBQ but the damp coals were impossible to light - even with a whiskey bottle filled with petrol from the local shop! Refusing to be beaten, Ross descaled and filleted the fish while Danielle made a zingy salsa. We then politely asked a local restaurant if we could use their grill to cook our fish if we brought some rice from them. They kindly agreed so we finished up with a fishy feast. From the sea to our plates in just a few hours, you can’t get fresher than that!
We went on a day trip to Dalawella Beach 2km away. It was the kind of place you can imagine on the front of a holiday brochure and in tough competition with Hiriketiya for our ‘most beautiful beach’. Danielle had to have a go on a rope swing attached to a palm tree overhanging the beach (a girl will do anything for an insta picture). Jumping off was scarier than it looks but the enjoyment of swinging over the water was totally worth those first few moments of fear.
Staying based in Unawatuna we took yet another crazy Sri Lankan 'disco' bus to the historic city of Galle. The fort still used by the military until recently, was first built by the Portuguese and later occupied by the Dutch; this architectural influence created a very European feel. The narrow streets filled with art galleries and chic cafes with their relaxed vibe was a stark contrast to the bustling markets and noisy traffic in the new town just outside the fort walls. We enjoyed more Ceylon tea and treated ourselves to the most delicious ice cream - peanut butter for Ross and holy grail (chocolate ice cream laced with toasted nuts and salted caramel) for Danielle.
Hikkaduwa was sadly our last stop in beautiful Sri Lanka but was an amazing finale to this incredible country. The lady at our guesthouse suggested we went snorkelling in front of a particular hotel. As we stepped in, Danielle moved left to avoid a rock which then moved and raised its head! We were astounded that a huge green turtle was right by us! On went our goggles so we could swim alongside it (remembering the camera this time). In the half hour we spent in the water before a storm arrived, we saw a turtle every minute or two. We guess there were about 5 different turtles just swimming through the shallow water and feeding on the seaweed there; the reason they come to that particular area. We caught hold of some of this seaweed floating through the water and held it out for a wild turtle to take. It was truly amazing. The turtles appeared unfazed by the humans in the water. They swam right up to us which, at points, was kinda scary to be face to face with a huge meter long sea creature - albeit incredible. We went back twice the following day to repeat it all again. It was something so special neither of us will ever forget.
Snorkelling a kilometre north of the turtle spot was also amazing; it would have felt spectacular if not overshadowed by turtles! The tropical fish in vast numbers and variety swarmed us as we fed them again with a bread bottle. The holder of the bottle felt like the Pied Piper as schools of fish swam after us. This area just off the beach is an underwater National Park and has a small amount of coral remaining that attracts the array of brightly coloured fish.
On our last morning we visited the Tsunami Education Centre and Museum. The photos portrayed what a horrific affect the tsunami had on the people of Sri Lanka. Over 35,000 people had their lives taken by the 15m high wave that struck twice along the coastline. The Buddha statue erected as memorial is also 15m high, showing the sheer size of the wave (see the red circle around Ross stood at the base). The site of the museum is located close to the worst train disaster in history; 1,500 passengers died trapped in the train during the tsunami while only 10 escaped. Although the facts and figures where horrendous, it was the photos showing the sea of bodies and parents harrowed faces lying beside their dead children that really hit home. It is remarkable how a country so greatly affected has rebuilt itself. The money raised by the museum supports local people by educating them on the science behind tsunamis and how to stay safe should an event like this ever occur again.
Now for two flights and a 6 hour stop over in Kuala Lumpur to get to Hanoi in northern Vietnam. Keep us updated with the festivities at home, we are enjoying seeing all your trees and decorations!
Love R and D xxx
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