Hi All,
To reach our next stop, we took a ferry and bus from Cat Ba Island to Tam Coc; from where we then took a night bus to Phong Nha. This left us with a bonus afternoon to explore in Tam Coc - luckily with dry weather!
Tam Coc, just outside of Ninh Binh, has been dubbed the inland Ha Long Bay. With its flat floodplain and jutting limestone cliffs, it was clear to see the similarities between the two places. We rented bicycles for the afternoon so we could see as much as possible in the short time we had there. As we cycled alongside the river, it was fascinating to see ladies rowing boats using their feet - a traditional fishing method now used for tourists. We stopped to visit a deserted old village which we think was a replica built to show houses/ village life from the past; although there was no one around to confirm this (or sell us a ticket). We returned to town for a delicious spit-roasted whole duck which we enjoyed with rice, greens and pineapple before we caught the over night bus that Danielle was dreading.
The bus wasn’t half as bad as expected, we both managed to get a few hours sleep by the time we arrived in Phong Nha town centre at 4am. In fact, Ross was so soundly asleep that Danielle had to get back on the bus and shake him awake so that he didn’t miss our stop! We headed to a hostel we had seen online but when we arrived to find its prices were higher than the hotels we’ve been staying in, we decided to use its WiFi to find somewhere else instead. Luckily there was a great hotel just 50m down the road that was only £10 a night (including breakfast) who let us check in straight away so we could get a few more hours sleep.
Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park is colossal a 885 square kilometres of jungle and home to a plethora of stunning caves, including Son Doong Cave (the worlds largest). Only 500 people can enter the 5km long cavern each year at a cost of around £3,000 - some what out of budget! Instead we visited the ‘Dark Cave’ and ‘Paradise Cave’; ridding on a scooter through the National Park to reach them.
Thien Đuong Cave, nicknamed Paradise Cave for its sheer beauty, is 31km long. We were able to explore the first kilometre of it along a raised boardwalk which we accessed through a deceivingly tiny entrance. It was so impressive that Ross already wants to return and take the tour that hikes 7km into the cave. The lighting in the cave made the natural formations look like something from a fairy tale - home to a dragon maybe! Well that was Danielle's opinion, Ross thought it looked more like something from Star Wars. It was amazing when you consider the millions of years it has taken to form all the stalactites and stalagmites, still growing drop by drop. The cave was truly spectacular! The pictures give an impression of their beauty but don’t quite capture the scale.
Hang Toi Cave, our second stop, is also known as the Dark Cave as there are no lights or boardwalk inside - just water, mud and insects! While outside the cave, there is a small adventure activity park which we of course took advantage of. Normally tours inside take around 20 people a time but as it was cold and wet (again) we were the only two people there. We got changed into our swimwear (freezing cold and begin to understand why we were alone) and got kitted up with a life jacket, harness and helmet with mounted head torch. Our tour began on a 400 metre long zip line that took us to the cave entrance. From there we began the walk through waist deep water into the cave mouth, it all felt very Indiana Jones! . It was a surreal experience! When we turned off our lights, it was absolutely pitch black and completely silent. This brought to mind the Thai boys and their coach. While we knew we were 100% safe and would be out in an hour, we couldn’t begin to imagine what it would feel like being trapped in such a terrifying environment.
The main cavern continued until the ceiling slopped into the water where we then took a right turn into a narrow passage. We clambered through the slippery muddy channel until we reached a mud bath at the end. Inside was like quick sand, the mud pulling us under down past our waists. On our way out, the guide used his helmet to pour water down a muddy slope which we then slid down - you are never too old for a slide! When we emerged, we took a kayak back to the boat station where there were obstacle courses over the water. Ross completed the zip line, cargo net, rope swings and monkey bars. Meanwhile, Danielle only just about managed to cling on for the hanging zip line and decided it was just too cold to be playing over a river!
Our motorbike journey back through the National Park was much like our one on Cat Ba island - cold and wet! The hot barbecued pork waiting for us back in the town was a much welcomed warming meal.
So far our trip to Vietnam has mainly been stunning natural features. Our next stop is Hue, the county's ancient capital, for some architecture and history.
Love R and D xxx
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